Finally back to blogging on Buenos Aires! For the past few weeks I was catching up with older posts.
I would like to warn you guys about mosquitoes in Buenos Aires, they are pretty vicious in Spring (September-December) especially Summer. We ended up with dozens of mosquito bites for the past few weeks. I wish I brought my repellent, Tick Tock Naturals Organic Insect Repellent, it worked great on me in Thailand and it’s vegan-friendly. We are here for another 2 1/2 weeks, so we will manage.
vegnews posts incorrect information
I found some incorrect information on VegNews’ 5 Must-Eat Vegan-Friendly Spots in Buenos Aires, so I would like to correct them here. Kensho is not completely raw, it is mostly raw (but still completely vegan). Also, it has been closed for several months and will reopen in November. The dates and locations for Buenos Aires Market change each month, with the market moving between a number of different barrios throughout the city, not just San Telmo and Palermo! For those of you who can’t live without mayo, there is a vegan mayo by Mi Soja, it’s available at some vegan cafes & health food shops.
A national historical monument, The Obelisk of Buenos Aires is a must to see while you’re in Buenos Aires.
Looking for delicious, crusty and vegan-friendly artisan French breads in a variety of styles, shapes and sizes? Try our favorite L’epi Bakery, founded in 2005 by two French bakers Bruno Gillot and Olivier Hanocq. Both of them were born and raised in Paris and came to Buenos Aires in 1997. L’epi Bakery Bakery has two locations in Buenos Aires: Recoleta and Villa Ortúzar, in addition, they are also a regular vendor at the Buenos Aires Market (BAM). We’ve seen other bread bakeries in Buenos Aires, but none of them are as nice as their breads, plus not even vegan!
Most of the breads are vegan, but the pastries are not vegan. The ingredients for a few items are listed on their website. A baguette is about $2 while a zeppelin or boule will cost around $3-4. While more expensive than the average bread in Buenos Aires, this isn’t average bread. The artisanal quality is apparent in the taste and texture of their breads and well worth the premium.
We only went to the nearest location in Recoleta, which is on a quiet residential street. It’s about 4 blocks from The Recoleta Cemetery and about 1 mile from a national historical monument, The Obelisk of Buenos Aires.
L’epi Bakery at Buenos Aires Market: Buenos Aires Market (BAM) is a Local Artisans Market that occurs once a month. We have seen other bakery vendors at the market, so far L’epi is our favorite bakery in Buenos Aires.
L’epi Bakery (Recoleta): We picked up our favorite Pan de Campo bread and brought it back with us. The ingredients are wheat flour, water, salt and naturally sourdough (levain). The Pan de Campo pairs well with soups, sauces, pasta, and even on its own with creamy salad.
L’epi Bakery (Recoleta): We also picked up Pan de Centeno (Rye Bread) with a beautiful scoring. It was the most attractive bread we have picked up in Buenos Aires. Ingredients are 40% rye flour, 60% wheat flour, water, salt and natural sourdough. It’s moist, fresh and dense with a slightly malty taste. Pan de Centeo makes a great sandwich.
L’epi Bakery (Recoleta): Loved taking photos of Pan de Centeno (Rye Bread).
L’epi Bakery (Recoleta): Pan de Centeno (Rye Bread)
L’epi Bakery (Recoleta): We also made a vegan chickpea salad with their tasty Baguette. When shopping for baguettes, look for the slightly golden brown ones for softer and airy interiors. The vegan chickpea salad is from the Creamy Chickpea Mash recipe I’ve posted in September however with slightly different ingredients.
Here is a 2nd version of the Creamy Chickpea Mash recipe, instead I would call this Creamy Cilantro Salad with Cilantro:
Buenos Aires Market (BAM)
Buenos Aires Market (BAM) is more of an artisanal market than a farmers market that is held one weekend a month. The dates and locations change each month, with the market moving between a number of different barrios throughout/across the city. Please note that they only announce the date/location for ONE MARKET at a time. Check out their facebook or website for more details on the next market.
Since it is an outdoor market, bad weather can result in the schedule being changed and the market being postponed.
We attended the BAM in Belgrano (northern area of Buenos Aires and in Chinatown) on Saturday, September 21. There were a lot of samples on offer. Since we arrived early, right at the 10am opening time, we were able to speak with a few vendors (only in Spanish) but by 11am the market was already becoming rather busy. Most vendors were enthusiastic about their products and eager to offer samples. There were probably just as many food stalls as there were product vendors.
Majority of the vegetarian empanadas at the markets were not vegan, the only vegan empanadas we saw were at Picnic vendor.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): We discovered a few vegan-friendly gourmet condiments such as the German mustard, and chimichurri by Marian Arytza. While some of their products contain honey, these two products in the photograph don’t contain honey according to the locals. Marian Arytza products do not contain conservatives and artificial flavors.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): Bought Marian Arytza’s German Mustard (Mostaza Alemana) for $30 ARS (about $5 USD). Ingredients are mustard seeds, vinegar, water, sea salt, garlic, fennel, turmeric and beer.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): Bought some organic sugar since there aren’t any organic sugar at the supermarkets in Buenos Aires (except for small health food shops). 500g organic sugar costs $10 ARS (about $2 USD).
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): A few vegan pastries as long as you see the term, “Vegano” in Spanish. We didn’t see the name of the stall or have the chance to ask them since they were busy. Also a signage on Veggie Burgers and Lemonade, we didn’t ask if they were vegan since they were busy, too. The busier the stalls are, the harder to ask in Spanish. If you know anything about these stalls, please leave a comment or e-mail us.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): This is our favorite vegan food stall at Buenos Aires Market, and a must to try: Kensho, Cocoina De Mercado. It’s 100% vegan, but mostly raw. They also have a restaurant in Palermo Soho area, a trendy neighborhood on El Salvador street and we are excited to check it out on our last week in Buenos Aires.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): Kensho offers a variety of vegan (and mostly raw) desserts, tacos and burritos, appetizers, including pizza.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): At Kensho, we tried their raw and vegan chorizo wrapped in nori sheets, known as Chori Nori, at $35 ARS (about $6 USD), which was a bit expensive to try. It was interesting to try and it was mostly a savory, mildly spicy and nutty filling in nori sheets.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): Kensho offers two types of vegan tacos: Black Beans or Hummus. We chose the Taco Frijolero with black beans, cole slaw and Rawmesan at $25 ARS (about $4.30 USD). The Rawmesan was pretty tasty and I wish it was available at some health food shops.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): Vegan Taco Frijolero with black beans, cole slaw and Rawmesan. Refreshing, tasty, and full of fresh ingredients. The Rawmesan was tasty.
Buenos Aires Market @ Belgrano (Sept 21): There is another vegan food stall by a vegan restaurant, Picnic. I wrote about them last month, you can read it here. We didn’t try any of their foods, but they have vegan empanadas. Majority of the vegetarian empanadas at the markets were not vegan, the only vegan empanadas we saw were at Picnic stall.